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Agave plants have been cultivated and consumed for thousands of years in Mexico, but their history is shrouded in mystery and myth. Some legends say that the agave was a gift from the gods, others that it was a source of food, medicine, fiber, and ritual for indigenous peoples, and still others that it was a commodity that fueled the Spanish conquest and colonization of Mexico. However, when it comes to tequila, the most famous and controversial agave-based drink, the past of the agave is even more intriguing and complex. In this blog post, we will explore some of the mysteries and stories behind the agave plants of tequila, from their origins to their present.
The Origins of Agave: A Geological and Biological Puzzle
Agave plants belong to the family Asparagaceae, which also includes onions, garlic, and asparagus. There are over 200 species of agave, but only a few can be used to make tequila, such as Agave tequilana, Agave angustifolia, and Agave azul. These species are known for their large and fleshy hearts, or piñas, which are roasted and crushed to extract their juice, which is then fermented and distilled into tequila. However, the agave plants that produce tequila are not native to the region where tequila is made, but rather to other parts of Mexico and even beyond.
The ancestral species of agave are believed to have originated in the Americas or in Africa, around 10-16 million years ago. However, their fossil record is scarce and fragmented, and their evolutionary history is still contested by scientists. Some researchers propose that agave plants evolved in xeric biomes, which are dry and arid landscapes, and adapted to store water, resist drought, and cope with herbivores and pathogens. Others suggest that agave plants evolved in more humid and temperate zones, and diversified through hybridization, polyploidy, and dispersal. Whatever their origins, agave plants are now widespread and diverse, and they have been domesticated and hybridized by humans for thousands of years.
The Agave and the Mexican Culture: a Symbol and a Struggle
Agave plants have been used by indigenous peoples in Mexico for millennia, as a source of food, fiber, medicine, and ritual. Different communities have developed their own traditions and practices around agave, depending on their ecological and cultural contexts. Some examples are:
– The Mixtecs, Zapotecs, and other pre-Hispanic cultures in Oaxaca, Guerrero, and Puebla, who cultivated agave for their leaves, which were used to make mats, baskets, hats, and clothing, and for their flowers, which were eaten or brewed into alcoholic beverages such as pulque and octli. These cultures also carved agave designs into stones, pottery, and walls, as a way to honor the plant spirits and express their cosmology.
– The Chichimecas, a group of nomadic tribes in central Mexico, who relied on agave for their survival in the harsh and hostile environment of the highlands. They used agave as a source of food, water, and shelter, and also as a weapon, by sharpening its leaves into spikes and throwing them at their enemies. They also used agave for their rituals, by offering it to their gods and spirits, and by chewing its leaves to induce visions and trances.
– The Teuchitlan culture, a pre-Columbian civilization that flourished in western Mexico from 200 BC to 500 AD, and left behind a rich legacy of stone architecture, sculpture, and art. This culture is famous for its circular platforms, or “guachimontones”, which were used for public and religious ceremonies. Recent studies have shown that these platforms were built around a central pit, where agave was roasted and fermented, and where people gathered to drink and dance. This suggests that agave played a central role in Teuchitlan culture, as a social lubricant and a symbol of identity.
Despite their cultural and ecological significance, agave plants faced multiple threats and challenges throughout history. Some of these threats were natural, such as droughts, floods, pests, and diseases. Others were human-made, such as deforestation, overgrazing, mining, and monoculture. The arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century marked a turning point in the fate of agave, as they introduced new crops, animals, diseases, and technologies that transformed the landscapes and societies of Mexico. One of their most enduring legacies was the planting of agave for commercial purposes, especially in the region of Jalisco, where they found a suitable climate, soil, and water for the agave cultivation. This led to the emergence of the tequila industry, which would become a symbol and a struggle of Mexican identity, culture, and economy.
The Birth and Growth of Tequila: a Legend and a Reality
Tequila is often associated with parties, shots, lime, and salt, but it has a much deeper and richer history than its popular image suggests. Tequila is a distilled spirit that can be made only from agave plants that grow in several states of Mexico, but mainly in Jalisco, where the town of Tequila is located. Tequila is regulated by the Mexican government, which sets strict criteria for its production, labeling, and quality. Tequila can be classified into five categories, based on its aging and maturation process:
– Blanco, or silver tequila, which is unaged and has a clear and fresh flavor, with hints of agave, pepper, and citrus.
– Joven, or gold tequila, which is a blend of blanco and reposado, and can be either natural or artificial in color, and usually has a smoother and sweeter taste, with notes of caramel and vanilla.
– Reposado, or rested tequila, which is aged for at least two months in oak barrels, and has a soft and smooth texture, with hints of spices, herbs, and wood.
– Añejo, or aged tequila, which is aged for at least one year in oak barrels, and has a complex and rich flavor, with a mix of agave, chocolate, tobacco, and coffee.
– Extra-Añejo, or ultra-aged tequila, which is aged for at least three years in oak barrels, and has a very refined and elegant taste, with subtle flavors of caramel, nuts, and fruit.
The production of tequila involves several steps, and requires expertise, patience, and creativity. The first step is to harvest the agave plants, which takes several years, depending on the species and the conditions. The second step is to roast the piñas, which can be done in traditional ovens or in autoclaves, and which softens the fibers and enhances the sugars and flavors. The third step is to crush the piñas, which can be done manually, with a tahona, or with modern mills, and which extracts the juice, or mosto, from the pulp. The fourth step is to ferment the mosto, which converts the sugars into alcohol, and which can be done with natural or cultured yeasts, in wooden or stainless steel vats. The fifth step is to distill the fermented mosto, which separates the alcohol from the water and the impurities, and which can be done in copper or stainless steel stills, in two or three rounds. The sixth step is to age or blend the distilled tequila, which can be done in oak barrels, in stainless steel tanks, or by mixing different batches. The seventh step is to bottle and label the tequila, which can be done in various shapes and sizes, and which must meet the legal requirements of the Mexican government, as well as the expectations of the consumers.
However, the birth and growth of tequila was not smooth or linear, but turbulent and contested. There are several versions of the origin of tequila, but the most popular one involves a myth and a reality. According to the myth, the goddess Mayahuel gave birth to 400 rabbits, which symbolized the agave plants, and which were consumed by the deity Patecatl, who discovered the psychoactive and medicinal properties of agave. According to the reality, tequila was not a deliberate invention, but a byproduct of the colonization and exploitation of Mexico by the Spanish.
The Spanish colonizers, who came to Mexico in the 16th century, were interested in extracting the precious metals and other resources of the newly conquered land, and also in imposing their culture and religion on the indigenous peoples. They brought with them not only guns, horses, and diseases, but also crops, animals, and technologies that transformed the landscapes and societies of Mexico. One of these crops was agave, which they found in abundance in the vicinity of Jalisco, and which they cultivated as a source of fiber, food, and drink. They distilled the fermented juice of agave into a crude spirit that they called mezcal, and which they consumed as a cheap and potent alternative to the imported brandy and wine.
The local indigenous peoples, who had already been using agave for their rituals and commerce, and who had their own techniques and traditions of fermentation and distillation, soon adopted the Spanish method of mezcal, and modified it to suit their needs and tastes. They used the hearts of the blue agave, which grew taller and sweeter than other species, and which had a distinctive shape and flavor. They roasted them in underground ovens, or in pits, which allowed the piñas to absorb the smoky and earthy flavors of the charcoal and the soil. They crushed them with large stone mills, or with mules, which preserved the fibers and the agave flavor. They fermented them in wooden vats, or in animal skins, which added some wild yeasts and bacteria to the process, and gave the mezcal a more complex and rustic taste. They distilled them in copper stills, which removed some of the harshness and impurities of the mezcal, and gave it a smoother and richer profile.
The resulting product, which they called tequila, after the name of the town where they sold it, became popular among the local and national markets, and began to spread to other parts of Mexico and beyond. However, the production and distribution of tequila was not easy, due to several factors that inhibited its growth and reputation. Some of the challenges were:
– The scarcity and variability of agave, which depended on the weather, the pests, the diseases, and the market demands, and which led to boom-and-bust cycles in the industry. In some periods, there was a surplus of agave, which led to overplanting and dumping, and in other periods, there was a shortage of agave, which led to hoarding and speculation.
– The lack of standardization and certification, which made it difficult for consumers to trust the quality and authenticity of tequila, and which also made it easy for producers to deceive or confuse them. Some producers added sugar, flavoring, or coloring to their tequila, or sold it under false names or labels, or diluted it with water or other spirits. This led to a loss of reputation and credibility for the tequila industry, and also to a legal and political battle for the protection of the name and the heritage of tequila.
– The competition and imitation from other agave-based spirits, which also claimed the right to use the agave name and the agave plant. Some of these spirits were mezcal, which had different types of agave, regions, and techniques, and which was associated with a more rustic and artisanal image; some of these spirits were sotol, bacanora, raicilla, or pulque, which had their own characteristics and histories, but which were not as well-known or regulated as tequila. This led to a debate over the identity and diversity of the agave spirits, and also to a marketing and promotion strategy for tequila, aimed at highlighting its uniqueness and superiority over other spirits.
In spite of these challenges, the tequila industry continued to grow and improve, thanks to the efforts of some visionary and dedicated people, who believed in the potential and the value of tequila, and who worked hard to preserve and enhance its culture and quality. Some of these people were:
– Don Cenobio Sauza, who founded the first commercial tequila distillery, La Perseverancia, in 1873, and who introduced several innovations, such as steam-powered mills, stainless steel tanks, and laboratory analysis, to improve the efficiency and consistency of the production. Don Cenobio also promoted tequila in international exhibitions and contests, and became a symbol of the tequila industry’s ambition and tradition.
– The Mexican government, which recognized the importance and the vulnerability of tequila as a national heritage and a global brand, and which created several laws and institutions, such as the Norma Oficial Mexicana (NOM) and the Consejo Regulador del Tequila (CRT), to regulate, certify, and promote tequila. These laws and institutions set the standards and the criteria for the production, labeling, and authentication of tequila, and also established the geographical boundaries, the agave species, and the aging categories of tequila.
– The tequila producers, who diversified and specialized their products, and who invested in quality control, innovation, and sustainability. Some producers created premium and ultra-premium tequilas, which were aged and blended in unique ways, and which were marketed to luxury and niche markets. Some producers also adopted eco-friendly and socially responsible practices, such as organic farming, conservation, and education, to reduce their carbon footprint and contribute to the welfare of the communities and the environment.
The Future of Tequila: a Challenge and an Opportunity
Tequila has come a long way from its humble and ambiguous beginnings, and has become a symbol of Mexican culture, heritage, and entrepreneurship. However, the challenges and the opportunities that face tequila now and in the future are no less daunting and exciting. Some of these challenges and opportunities are:
– The sustainability and the diversity of agave. Agave plants are facing a range of threats and pressures, such as climate change, pests, diseases, monoculture, and overexploitation. To ensure the survival and the health of agave, it is necessary to adopt and promote practices that promote biodiversity, conservation, and resilience, such as agroforestry, intercropping, water management, and integrated pest management. It is also important to research and preserve the genetic and phenotypic diversity of agave, which can provide the basis for future breeding and selection of more adapted and valuable cultivars.
– The innovation and the quality of tequila. Tequila is not only a heritage product, but also a dynamic and evolving industry, which can benefit from technological and scientific advancements. To improve the production and the quality of tequila, it is necessary to invest in research and development, in areas such as yeast selection and engineering, still design and optimization, and sensory analysis and marketing. It is also important to respect and enhance the traditional practices and knowledge that have made tequila unique and appreciated, and to involve and empower the communities and the workers who make tequila possible.
– The awareness and the education of tequila. Tequila is not only a product to be consumed, but also a cultural and educational tool, which can foster understanding and appreciation of Mexico’s history, customs, and environment. To promote the awareness and the education of tequila, it is necessary to create and disseminate information and resources that explain the origins, the processes, the varieties, and the uses of tequila, and that also highlight the social and environmental issues and opportunities that are related to tequila. It is also important to encourage and support cultural and social events and projects that showcase the diversity and the richness of the agave culture and heritage, and that contribute to the sustainable and inclusive development of the tequila industry and its stakeholders.
Conclusion
The agave plants of tequila hold a mysterious and fascinating past, that reflects the natural, cultural, and spiritual history of Mexico and its peoples. From their geological and biological origins, to their indigenous and colonial uses, to their commercial and symbolic value, agave and tequila have been a source of inspiration, innovation, and controversy. However, the future of agave and tequila depends on the ability of the industry and the society to balance and integrate the various challenges and opportunities that face them. By adopting sustainable and diverse practices, by innovating and improving the quality of tequila, and by raising awareness and promoting education of tequila, we can ensure that agave and tequila will continue to be a pride and a pleasure of Mexico and the world.
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